Variations on a ski theme Print E-mail
Written by Gillian Thomas, 2006   
Don’t worry if you can’t ski, or only have a weekend to spare – winter sports holidays are more flexible and appealing than ever before, says Gillian Thomas.

Winter sports holidays come in many different forms – from a weekend break to a women-only getaway. They are also ideal for an all-ages family holiday. Seeing snow is as beautiful and exciting for a young child as for a granny who no longer has the energy to ski. Furthermore skiing is not the only activity on offer. Dog-sledding, snow-shoeing, kite-flying and snow-mobiling are all exciting alternatives that can be combined with plying the slopes on a pair of skis or a board.

Everywhere the standard of accommodation for skiers is improving. Many hotels now have spas and more and more chalets offer en suite facilities. Some even boast whirlpools and saunas too. Facilities in Europe generally do not match what you can get for the same price in North America, though inevitably it costs you more to get there.

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Pic credit: Mike Mahoney for Humber Valley Resort
Short breaks

A weekend on the slopes is a perfectly feasible option today, especially since the introduction of so many low-cost flights. If you can be flexible, the best plan is to wait until a big dump of snow arrives and then book at the last minute. But bear in mind that peak periods like Christmas, half-term (French as well as British) and the Easter holidays are best avoided as flights and accommodation are likely to be both scarce and more expensive. Also, the later you wait to book, the chances are you will find the advertised cheap fares have all gone.

Geneva, one of the best-served airports from the UK, is within easy reach of some of the world’s best skiing. From it, there is easy access by road and rail to many of the highest resorts in the Alps.

France’s Haute Savoie Alps offer some of the best short-break options. Coach services (that do not have to pre-booked) run regularly from Geneva airport to various ski resorts there, particularly those along the 10-mile Chamonix Valley, though hiring a car is a more flexible option. Classy Megève or purpose-built Avoriaz and Flaine are even nearer to Geneva. Chamonix itself, nestling below the majestic Mont Blanc, is a genuine old Alpine town with cobbled streets, a pedestrianised centre and attractive old chalet-style buildings.

Train lovers can take a train from Geneva along its beautiful lake with bus connections on to several Swiss resorts like Villars and Les Diablerets. From Munich, the options include Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany’s best-known resort – just an hour by road or rail. The less well-known slopes of Engelberg and Andermatt are both within easy reach of Zurich, as are most of Austria’s eastern resorts from Salzburg.

Women only

With women now making up 43 per cent of the British ski market, an increasing number of women-only courses are on offer, particularly at North American resorts such as Stowe in Vermont and Fernie in the Canadian Rockies. The idea was pioneered several years ago by Stephanie Sloan, a former Canadian ski champion, in Whistler, British Columbia.

Our anatomy is different and we’re more interested in honing our technique than racing to the bottom of a slope in the shortest possible time. This is why it makes good sense for women and men to have separate ski lessons. In Europe, the Ski Club of Great Britain has started offering women-only holidays to enable women to ski in a group of similar standard.

Although instruction is not part of its package, as Bettany Garner of the Ski Club points out, female confidence gets a boost when women feel they do not have to compete with men. Last season, for instance, they offered an off-piste week in Argentière as well as a ski-and-spa weekend in Zell-am-See that proved to be a particularly popular and successful combination.

All ages and non-skiers

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Pic credit: Mike Mahoney for Humber Valley Resort
But what if you want to take a winter holiday as a family, perhaps including both non-skiers and small children? A catered chalet tends to be a good option for accommodation, especially as it provides communal space for some sociable après-ski chat and games, as well as baby-sitting. Some chalets come with nanny services through ski companies such as Esprit that specialise in family skiing. This is definitely the best solution when grandparents are as keen to ski as parents and can’t act as babysitters.

When there are non-skiers in the party, you need to choose a resort with life beyond the slopes. So walking trails, shops, a museum and the opportunity to go on an outing further afield are all worth looking out for. Non-skiers in Kitzbühel, for instance, have the traditional Austrian town to explore with its charming cobbled streets, attractive chalet-style buildings and a good selection of tempting shops. There are also many cosy coffee bars and restaurants to sample.

Cortina d’Ampezzo, which is surrounded by Italy’s magnificent Dolomite scenery, also attracts many visitors who never bother to go on the slopes, particularly Italians, many of whom have second homes there. They like to browse along Corse Italia with its designer boutiques, antique shops and art galleries, between people-watching and enjoying leisurely lunches.

In France, Chamonix is a good choice, having been a popular walking centre for many years before ski holidays became popular. It has riverside trails, a leisure centre, interesting shops and the Aiguille du Midi cable-car, Europe’s first and highest, which goes up Mont Blanc, providing spectacular views over the valley. There is also a scenic train ride up the valley into Switzerland.

The four ski villages that form Les Arcs are situated above Bourg St Maurice, a ‘real’ French town, which is easily reached from any of them by a short funicular ride. From there, plenty of local trains and buses are available for days out, as well as direct rail services to Chambery and Paris. These enable members of a group to travel separately and stay for different lengths of time if necessary, rather than being tied to a weekly package flight.