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I swore that we would never attempt to sleep on a train again after an overnight trip from London to Inverness many years ago. We had a rude awakening at Nuneaton while our faulty carriage was towed away and we waited bleary-eyed on the cold platform, nightclothes hastily stuffed into jeans, for a replacement to appear.
However, since becoming the owners of a village house in the south-west of France, we have discovered the joys of 'letting the train take the strain'.
As a Canadian, I wasn't really surprised to discover how big France is compared with the UK. But somehow, every time my husband and I contemplate that drive south from Calais or Cherbourg (or worse still, at the end of the holiday, the drive back up north) it becomes less appealing. Even 20 years ago, I wasn't really smitten with the idea of thrashing down the autoroute for 11 hours, battling it out with French tailgaters and German lorries. And even though French motorways are superb and nothing could be more enjoyable than a leisurely drive south, taking Routes Nationales and stopping off the beaten track at chambres d'hôtes, we never seem to have the luxury of time. Our holidays are all-too-brief fortnights.
So what is the answer? Low-cost flights to French and Spanish regional airports have transformed life for holidaymakers and second home-owners alike, nevertheless you still have to hire a car when you get to your destination and you can't take a flatpack wardrobe and 15 litres of Dulux with you! Your own car is essential if you want to transport brocante finds or building materials while you are on holiday (as so many second home-owners do), or if you want to bring a substantial amount of wine back to the UK.
We discovered the answer six years ago - French Motorail. Although it adds considerably to the cost of our holiday, it certainly lessens the driving stress. We take the Eurotunnel or short ferry crossing to Calais, drive ten minutes from the ferry port (15 from Coquelles) to the dedicated Motorail auto-train terminal, then enjoy our train journey south while our loaded estate car accompanies us on one of the special carriages behind. How does it work?With several hours to spare between our ferry arrival and boarding the train at 8.30pm (the car is loaded on about an hour before this) we are able to buy a picnic supper in a supermarket and enjoy a leisurely beer in the small terminal buffet before setting off across the car park to the passenger carriages.
Last time, our family of three had an air-conditioned compartment for four (another person would have incurred no extra cost as the fare is calculated by cabin and car, not per person), but we have also had two compartments for two, which was perfect when our daughter brought a friend on holiday with us. The couchettes were comfortable, if a little hard, with sleeping-bag-type sheets, a pillow and blanket provided. We had pillows in our car, which we took into the cabin with us along with an overnight hold-all - once your car is driven on to its carriage, you can't get anything out of it.
As we sat in our compartment eating our picnic supper and toasting the beginning of our holiday, the train pulled out of Calais exactly on time. Terminating at Narbonne (a different line goes to Nice) it fairly whizzed along, although not at TGV speeds. Once our seats were made into beds, we passed a little time in the corridor watching the sunset and then wandered down to the buffet car where fellow Brits were already gathered.
Brive was a 6.00am stop for some passengers and a knock for us at 8.15am warned that Toulouse was ten minutes away. Our breakfast vouchers entitled us to croissants, orange juice and coffee at the station buffet, which helped to pass the time while our car was unloaded. And then - there we were, within an hour of our destination, in our own car and feeling reasonably refreshed. Had we gone all the way to Narbonne, we would have been just two hours drive from northern Spain. Damage checkBefore staff loaded our car in Calais, it was minutely examined for any pre-existing damage and a note made; again in Toulouse for the return journey. We were warned to turn off our car's alarm because the movement of the train would set it off. You are allowed to take a roof box free of charge if you can squeeze it into the car for travel. If that won't be possible because you are choc-a-bloc, a separate space must be pre-booked for it. Two bicycles can be carried free of charge. Note that there are space and height restrictions which means that certain people carriers are too high for loading. The costMotorail is certainly easier and less stressful than driving, but be prepared for high peak season fares. One way to Toulouse for a car and a four-berth compartment, outward in mid-July 2005, is £400, plus up to £110 supplement for weekend travel. To Nice the one-way fare is £470 plus weekend supplement.
Off-peak fares are cheaper: for instance, in early September, a car and up to six passengers can travel to Toulouse for £345, to Nice for £425. To this you have to add your fare to cross the Channel.
Motorail is ideal for families taking a fortnight's holiday with several young children. If you are loading up the car with furnishings for a property, don't have to travel at peak time and don't relish a long drive, this may suit you perfectly. Even low-cost airline fares can be high in the summer and hire cars can add considerably to the cost of a holiday, so this has to be considered in your cost comparison. When you take the price of petrol and motorway tolls into account, as well as the cost of possible overnight accommodation and meals, the figures start to even out a bit. |