|
If you look at a map of Ireland, you will see the 'toes' at the south-western tip. It is here that you will find the gateway to the ancient Kingdom of Kerry - a land of lush green pastures and archaeological gems.
But beyond its beauty, a plethora of festivals from music to dance, writing and sport, tempt even the most idle visitor to join in.
These festivals attract an international crowd throughout the year, while entire communities get involved in the organisation and the fun, sharing their creative talents with a wider audience. Many a visitor has settled here, succumbing to the magic, while others return year after year.
The Kingdom of Kerry, named after ancient kings of the region, the O'Connor Kerry in AD65, is home to a unique people who don't pander to the whimsical needs of tourists. They stick proudly to their heritage and do what they know works best for all. Should visitors be in any doubt, they are quickly convinced otherwise by the charm of the quick-witted people of Kerry.
 Credit: Cork Kerry Tourism
For a breath of fresh air take to the hills on the Irish bank holiday weekend (24 October) for the Tom Crean walking festival in Annascaul, celebrating the life of the Irish explorer who took part in the Scott/Shackleton expeditions. Explore Hallowe'en traditions on the same weekend in the country of its origin when old customs sit alongside international 'trick or treat' interpretations. Traditionally children dress up as witches, ghouls and spirits collecting 'money for the puca' - an adequate supply of food and coins protects the bearer from the torment of the greatly feared puca fairy who waits in the dark to leap out at a moment's notice.
Hallowe'en customs take on a lighter note, from apple bobbing to barmbrack fruitcake, but watch you don't chew on the piece of paper therein or you'll forever be poor. Make contact with a ring in the cake and you're soon to wed. The Wren BoysSee the year out to the dramatic beat of the Wren Boys who parade with ashen faces and straw masks through Listowel town on St Stephen's Day. Wearing wren-coloured outfits and carrying the effigy of a wren in a holly bush, or in a cage on a pole, they drift from neighbour to neighbour playing instruments and singing their signature song. Historically a real wren was captured and a dinner dance was held for the entire community.
The wren, the wren, the king of all birds, / St Stephen's day was caught in the furze / Although he was little, his honour was great / Jump up, me lads and give him a treat / Up with the kettle and down with the pan / And give us a penny to bury the wren...
Of Celtic origins, one tale claims the robin, symbolising the New Year, killed the wren, marking the old year. Another depicts St Stephen hiding from his enemies when a noisy wren betrayed him, which led to his stoning and death - this might explain why the wren is sometimes deemed "the devil's bird". Spring into summerThe party spirit reappears in January at the Shindig music and set dancing festival in Tralee; then February tests your knee lift and foot-tapping strength to the limit at The Gathering, music and céili sessions in Killarney. March sees the start of the Kerry Drama Festival in Castleisland and the Arts Festival in Tralee. Wherever you come across Irish traditional music sessions in Kerry you are welcome to bring your voice, instrument or simply join in the craic!
Listowel Writers' Week in June unites local and visiting writers, poets, storytellers and singers. Founded by writer Bryan MacMahon in 1970, the week includes workshops, competitions, banter and fun. It's a reflection on Listowel as 'the literary capital of Ireland', which has nurtured local talents, including Bryan MacMahon (The Master), Brendan Kennelly (Bread) John B Keane (The Field), George Fitzmaurice (The Country Dressmaker) and Maurice Walsh (The Quiet Man).
Kennelly once said: "When a Listowel man drinks from any tap in this lovely town, 'tis not only water that's going down, but the purified secrets of the dead, flowing into his belly and through his head..." Dublin writer Roddy Doyle recalls his welcome here: "When I read in Listowel, I was the author of one not very well-known book. Yet I was met like a much-loved cousin who'd just won the Nobel Prize and the All-Ireland medal in the same afternoon."
Two ancient festivals are resurrected in July and August - the pagan harvest festival of Lughnasa, which includes a musical and poetic ascent of Mount Brandon with a picnic at its peak, and Ireland's oldest festival - the Puck Fair.
Held without fail on 10-12 August each year, the Puck Fair attracts over 100,000 visitors to the hillside village of Killorglin at the foot of the McGillycuddy Reeks, Ireland's highest mountain range. It includes a traditional horse fair, the coronation of a goat, Guinness 'til the wee hours and a real variety of street entertainment.
History claims many origins to this fair, one of the more popular being its association with Cromwell. It is reputed that in 1650, while his army raided homes and swarmed the mountain landscape, they clashed with a herd of goats, which ran for refuge in the hills, with the exception of one male goat - the Puck - who ran all the way to Killorglin. Observing its exhausted state the villagers knew that trouble was on the way and duly prepared to protect their homes and livestock. A festival was subsequently held for their saviour to honour him and crown the King Puck - the King of the Goats.
Other versions of the fair's origins reflect on the goat as a pagan symbol of fertility and his coronation as a pre-Christian festival to honour the Celtic sun god Lugh. Some say it's simply a reference to goat market days with a 1603 mention in a James I charter granting legal status for the fair - the debate continues to the present day.
The festival begins with Gathering Day on 10 August followed by Fair Day and Scattering Day. An appointed 'goat catcher' searches for a suitable wild puck in the Kerry foothills on the August bank holiday, escorting the goat to the festival on Gathering Day where he parades through the streets to the cheers of the onlookers into Town Square. There, the Queen of the Fair delivers the Puck Proclamation to her assembly and crowns the Puck. The townspeople salute their new King who is ceremoniously raised on a platform above the town where he can view his subjects and the horse fair below, under the watchful care of his catchers.
Meanwhile, the Queen of the Puck Fair, a local schoolgirl, is assisted in her duties welcoming the visitors with the help of an appointed Lady-in-Waiting. On Fair Day a traditional market, cattle and sheep fair take place and last but not least Scattering Day means it's time to bid farewell to another year's festivities as the heroic puck is dethroned, parading one last time for the townsfolk before his return to the wilds of the Kerry mountains. Racing heartsAs summer draws to a close it's time for romance with the Rose of Tralee, an international celebration where the winning Rose, of Irish birth or descent, is chosen for quality of character.
'The Rose of Tralee' or 'Festival of Kerry' is rooted in the love between the famous song's author, William Mulchinock and Mary O'Connor, a native of Tralee. Their love was forbidden across the social divide and William was forced to emigrate. Returning years later to marry his true love, he discovered Mary had passed away. A broken-hearted William expressed his grief in his lyrics:
...She was lovely and fair as the rose of the summer, / Yet 'twas not her beauty alone that won me; / Oh no, 'twas the truth in her eyes ever dawning, / that made me love Mary, the Rose of Tralee.
In September, it's Racing Week at Listowel, a prelude to the wonderful winter events to follow. In fact, there's never a wrong time to travel to this friendly Kingdom of festivals and the gate's always open. You're invited... |
