Cultural highs of the Scottish west Print E-mail
Written by Penny Kitchen, 2004   
Page 1 of 2

Penny Kitchen travelled north of the border to Glasgow and Ayrshire to explore the homeland of Robert Burns and to discover how life was lived in times past, through the magical properties of the National Trust for Scotland. 

Scotland's largest city has become one of Europe's most popular short break choices and small wonder. Glasgow has internationally acclaimed museums and galleries, superb architecture, nightlife, excellent shopping and no shortage of great places to wine and dine.

When Glasgow was nominated as Cultural Capital of Europe in 1990, the city basked in the spotlight that shone on its artistic assets. In 1999 it was chosen UK City of Architecture and Design - naturally both events capitalised on architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh's achievements as central to the city's creative image.

Just as Gaudi and Frank Lloyd Wright left Barcelona and Chicago respectively forever indebted to their genius, so Charles Rennie Mackintosh brought international recognition to Glasgow with his unique, Scots-flavoured fusion of Modernist and Art Nouveau architecture and design.

Mackintosh's buildings - churches, public buildings and houses, all of them planned down to the last doorknob - bring pilgrims to Glasgow in their thousands, drawn by the vigorous lines, audacious detail and uncluttered interiors that were to inspire a generation of European designers.

But there is another famous Glasgow architect whose buildings have fared less well since his death in 1875. Alexander 'Greek' Thomson was one of Scotland's most original designers and, although he never travelled abroad, his training in classical architecture led him to incorporate many Greek touches into his churches, warehouses and villas. During the 1960s and 1970s many of Thomson's buildings were demolished, and this neglect continues somewhat controversially today.

One of his creations, Holmwood House in Glasgow south, has been in the care of the National Trust for Scotland (NTS) since 1994 and is open to the public while still being restored. Much of the original stencilled decoration has been uncovered and visitors return year after year to see the progress of the conservation work. An audio tour guides visitors around the house and there is always the possibility of talking to the conservators at work.

Art collections

There are more than 20 great art collections in Glasgow with The Burrell Collection in the Pollok Country Park probably the most famous. The collection is housed in an award-winning building three miles south of the city centre and is testament to the skill and judgment of Glasgow shipping magnate Sir William Burrell. In 1944 he gifted over 8,000 pieces of art, which include Degas paintings and Rodin sculptures, medieval tapestries as well as oriental porcelain to the city.

The Kelvingrove art gallery and museum, hugely popular with visitors and locals, is closed until 2005 for major refurbishment. Meanwhile, its 'Art Treasures of Kelvingrove' exhibition can be seen at the McLellan Galleries. Glasgow's Whistler collection, housed at the Hunterian Art Gallery at the University of Glasgow, is second only to that of the Freer Gallery in Washington DC.

Riverside regeneration

Exciting projects to restore the River Clyde to its rightful place at the heart of the city's life are underway. The £500 million Glasgow Harbour development will convert former shipyards and dockland into 120 acres of commercial, residential, leisure and public space. Meanwhile the futuristic Glasgow Science Centre, which opened in July 2001, has already welcomed over a million visitors to its 127 metre-high tower, science mall and IMAX cinema.

As well as being home to Scottish Opera, Scottish Ballet, the Royal Scottish National Orchestra and the Citizens' Theatre, Glasgow's year-round events help you time a visit. Highlights include a huge Celtic music festival in January, the Real Art Weekend in April, outdoor Shakespeare Festival every July and the World Pipe Band Championships in August.

Glasgow claims to have 'the coolest shopping in the UK': certainly it is one of the most enjoyable cities in which to shop. It has High Street names plus designer boutiques, giant malls and speciality shops all in a compact space. The 'Golden Z' as it is known has Argyle Street at one end, Sauchiehall Street at the other and the pedestrianised Buchanan Street in between.

In the Merchant City you can browse in designer shops but don't forget to look upwards and admire the handsome buildings that hark back to the days when Glasgow grew rich on the proceeds of trade. One of the most elegant buildings here is Hutchesons' Hall, 158 Ingram Street, built in 1802-5 and named for George and Thomas Hutcheson, founders of Hutchesons' Hospital. Besides being a favourite venue for lunchtime concerts and receptions, on the ground floor is Glasgow Style, a shop where jewellery, textiles, furniture, ceramics and more, all designed in Glasgow, are dramatically displayed for sale.

The Tenement House

Two other properties in this great city should be on your 'must see' list: Pollok House with its renowned collection of El Greco and Spanish paintings, and The Tenement House, a third-floor flat at 145 Buccleuch Street, preserved as it was in the early part of the 20th century when Miss Agnes Toward lived there.

Tenement houses in Glasgow and Edinburgh are not slums: they were the traditional form of Scottish town housing - a stone building with two or more storeys, and one or more dwelling units on each storey. In fact, Miss Toward had her own large bathroom and WC, a bedroom, parlour and kitchen - respectable middle-class accommodation.

The old lady didn't throw much away and it is a stroke of luck that after her death her papers and possessions were not disposed of and the flat redecorated and sold. Today it is owned and managed by the NTS and so authentic are the rooms that it's as though Agnes might climb the stairs and walk through the door at any moment. Even the gas lighting is real.

Two other properties in this great city should be on your 'must see' list: Pollok House with its renowned collection of El Greco and Spanish paintings, and The Tenement House, a third-floor flat at 145 Buccleuch Street, preserved as it was in the early part of the 20th century when Miss Agnes Toward lived there.

Tenement houses in Glasgow and Edinburgh are not slums: they were the traditional form of Scottish town housing - a stone building with two or more storeys, and one or more dwelling units on each storey. In fact, Miss Toward had her own large bathroom and WC, a bedroom, parlour and kitchen - respectable middle-class accommodation.


<< Start < Prev 1 2 Next > End >>
 
[ Back ]