| Beneath Manannan's Cloak |
|
|
| Written by Catherine Dell, 2006 | |
|
Page 1 of 2 Ellan Vannin is on our doorstep, yet one of the best-kept secrets in the British Isles. Catherine Dell discovers The Isle of Man
Within an hour of arriving at Ronaldsway, I got it wrong. Seriously. The road from the airport to Douglas goes over Fairy Bridge and, distracted by several parked cars, I forgot to greet the Little Folk as I drove across. I hoped they wouldn’t blight my visit in revenge for such grievous discourtesy! Manx fairies (known as Themselves), hairy house-elves, horrid hobgoblins, spectres, spirits, giants, witches... the island brims with folklore and legend, much of it rooted in ancient times. Like the story of Mann’s birth, which tells how the Irish giant, Finn MacCuill – in angry mood – hurled a handful of rock and earth at an enemy in Scotland. However, his missile fell short and landed in the sea. Another myth reveals that mist lying low on the hills is Manannan’s cloak, thrown over the island by the sorcerer-sea-god to shield it from invaders. Manannan’s strategy was not that successful. The Isle of Man (Ellan Vannin in Manx) or Mann (Mannin in Manx), is located at the geographical centre of Britain and Ireland, within easy reach of both, which made it very vulnerable. The original settlers were Celts, but around AD800 their peaceful prosperity was shattered by Viking raiders who ultimately became rulers, against a backcloth of recurrent conflict with neighbouring kingdoms. Often, Mann was a hapless pawn in power struggles between the Norsemen, Irish, Scots, Welsh and Britons. By the 14th century, Norse dominion had ended, likewise a spell of Scottish rule, and the island was in English hands, ‘owned’ successively by the Earls of Salisbury, Wiltshire, Northumberland, Derby and, from 1765, by the British Crown. Today the Queen remains Lord of Mann and the island ranks as a Crown Dependency; it is not part of the UK and has no representation at Westminster. Nor is it a member of the European Union. Help to exploreA fascinating way to explore this maze of history is via The Story of Mann, a themed island-wide trail of attractions presented by Manx National Heritage. The trail starts at the Manx Museum in Douglas, which gives an overview of the island and, spanning 10,000 years, introduces the diversity of Mann’s heritage – prehistoric artefacts right through to a First World War internment camp.From Douglas, the itinerary radiates out across the island and includes the House of Manannan at Peel, on the west coast. This stunning, state-of-the-art centre showcases Celts and Vikings, the two cultures that together forged Manx identity. Both peoples, in their own time, converted to Christianity and one of the centre’s most memorable presentations focuses on the carved stone crosses that, from the 6th century, served as grave markers and memorial stones. Across the island, there are some 200 of these crosses, their intricate decoration reflecting Celtic and Norse mythology.  Castle Rushen, one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in Europe. Peel has one more claim to fame – St Patrick’s Isle. Lying just beyond the harbour, this site was the centre of Manx Christianity in Celtic times and then, from the 11th century, the first seat of Mann’s Norse rulers. The gaunt, ragged profiles of cathedral and castle look particularly impressive at sunset – but beware Moddey Dhoo, the fearsome hound that haunts the ruins. Women’s voteTo the south, Castletown, the old capital, also has several Story of Mann attractions including Castle Rushen, one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in Europe, and the Old House of Keys, home of the Manx Parliament until it moved to Douglas in 1874. The Chamber has been expertly restored and visitors are invited to sit and debate historic issues alongside former members of the Keys, thanks to plasma screen technology. |
